The Journal
Rachel Halsey's diary "My Trip Abroad"
(from June 8th to July 30th 1914) covers the last few peaceful weeks in Europe immediately before, and during the period when WWI broke out. In her diary, she sends a "marconi gram," observes "sub marines," notes the presence of 7,000 troops in Potsdam, and the excitement just prior to the outbreak of war. Unfortunately she ends the journal abruptly on July 30th 1914, with "War! So endeth the diary". She was a 44 year-old Victorian lady at the time, who had started her trip on the S.S. New Amsterdam, Holland American Line, from Hoboken, N.J. with seven other ladies and a guide/chaperone.
European Tour June - September 1914
Members of the Party

Baker, Miss Marie K.W.
Chew, Miss Hanna H.
Dutton, Miss Jennie M.
Goddard, Mrs. Henry H.
Halsey, Mrs. John S.
Litchtenberger, Miss Muriel
McCracken, Miss Portia B.
Schmucker, Miss Dorothy M.
Weaver, Miss Annie I.

(Mrs. Henry H. Goddard was the tour leader and chaperone.)

Date: June 8, 1914
Vineland, NJ - S.S. New Amsterdam, Holland American Line

Left home at 10.38 - did some shopping in Philadelphia, and had an abstemious lunch! at Kuglers with a hurried dash of four minutes to catch the 2 o'clock train for N.Y., reaching there at 4 pm. Met Dr. & Mrs. Goddard and went to their room at the McAlpine. We took dinner at Martinique, had a ride on 5th Ave, and went to Ziegfield's Follies at New Amsterdam Theatre. We left at ten o'clock reaching the Hoboken & Holland American liner, New Amsterdam, at about 10.30. Dr. Halsey (note: her husband John) left about twelve, and shortly afterwards I retired to our very small state - having for roommates Miss Chew of Millville NJ, and Miss Jennie Dutton of Vineland.

Date: June 9
Place: Steamship New Amsterdam. To 12 noon travelled 109 miles.

Slept soundly - rising at 8 o'clock. Had an invigorating salt bath. Just a trifle rough today and Jennie, Muriel, and Portia suffered from mal de mer. Slept, read, and wrote letters - bridge and a fine concert in the evening and bed at ten o'clock.

Date: June 10
Place: S.S. New Amsterdam From 5/9/12 m to 5/10/12 m 375

The most perfect day imaginable. Much warmer than yesterday. Met chief engineer Sauer who sits at our table - a fat Hollander who lives at The Hague. Saw the boat drill in the morning from the boat deck. Saw a one-stack steamer pass in the far distance - too far to know what it was. Met Mr. Bernbaum of NY- a rather interesting widower who loved to talk about himself - he had crossed the ocean 84 times and told some great sea yarns. Dance in the evening which I enjoyed looking on - two especially pretty dancers.

Date: June 11
Place: S.S. New Amsterdam. Weather perfect but warm -

Sent a marconi gram home - the wireless man said the message would be sent at about 9 o'clock. Charge 36 cents per word including address and signature. Walked a great deal and felt better for the exercise. Read "Fannie's First Play" but cared little for it. By the way, the actor who took the part of Bobbie in the NY production is on board - a very sleek dapper-looking young man who keeps very much to himself. In the evening we had a vaudeville performance in our stateroom. Mrs. Goddard as "Sweet Sixteen" - Baker a "Sis Hopkins" and Litchtenberger as "Naughty Tommy" - lots of fun and merriment. Refreshments - angel food cake and fruit. From 12 m -10 to 12 m 11 - 394 miles.

Date: June 12
Place: S.S. New Amsterdam. Weather the same.

Visited 2nd Cabin which we found very neat and clean tho' not quite so ornamental as 1st - or so large - some very nice-looking people - lots of foreigners - and children. We peeked into the engine room and kitchen - I pity the poor stokers, who, our source of information the chief engineer tells us, are ten in number. The kitchen was not very inviting, but as it was Friday, the chef and his assistants might be pardoned for the soiled linen. Saw some turkeys which looked much better when cooked and on the table. From 2nd deck of 2nd cabin we could look down on the steerage passengers who seemed the gayest of the gay - "playing tug-of-war" - both men and women. Was a trifle glad to return altho' I feel if I could not go otherwise, I would be glad to go 2nd cabin.

In the afternoon about 2.30, was delighted to receive an answer from my wireless - "Message received. All well- J." (note: Mrs. Halsey's husband). I felt quite important seeing it was the first marconi gram of my life! McCracken sang for us before dinner. After dinner we played bridge - there was no concert by the orchestra in the evening, as they were playing for the dance in 2nd cabin. Met Dr. and Mrs. C. Lee Graber of Cleveland - their stateroom is opposite to ours. He is a distinguished-looking man and full of fun and his wife is very pleasant.

Date: June 13
Place: S.S. New Amsterdam From 5/12 to 5/13 12 m 386 m.

Weather still finer if possible. The Augusta Victoria (Kisarina) caught up to us and passed us at about eleven o'clock. She has 2 funnels and one more deck than we, and travels about 19 miles an hour - 3 miles faster than we. They passed very near to us - possibly only a thousand feet - which created quite an excitement - waving and cheering. In the afternoon we saw another vessel in the dim distance, but could not make out what it was. Wrote letters in between time. About 5 we saw a school of porpoises. One old gent told me in very broken English that it presaged a storm. Dance in the evening.

Date: June 14
Place: S.S. New Amsterdam From 5/13 12 m to 5/14/12 m 387 miles.

Another glorious day. Last night I think it rained a little. The ocean is like a millpond. Went to church this morning - Dr. Adams Brown of the Union Theological Seminary NYC conducted the services - something like the Episcopal - and made an address - took up collection for widows and orphans of Dutch sailors. Fog came up in the evening, and the foghorn raised its voice for the first time. The fog soon raised and left the atmosphere much clearer, and cooler to the extent of six degrees. Had tea in tea room.

Date: June 15 From 5/14 to 5/15 378 miles.

Overslept and missed the 10 o'clock engagement to visit the engine rooms - but find we can go tonight at 8 o'clock. Passed a large 2 stack steamer about a mile distant, said to be the American liner S.S. Philadelphia - the boat on which we sail for home. Baker, Schmucker, and Litchtenberger took photos. Wrote industriously after lunch to be ready for mailing at Plymouth. (note: Mrs. Halsey changed here from pencil to pen). Invested in a pen and feel much time will be saved. Went to the engine room and saw what powerful machinery it takes to run a boat - 42 immense furnaces. We were 20 ft underwater and there was still 15 feet more of boat. Found it not so hot as I had anticipated as great blasts of cold air were being driven in. The boat has its own electric light and refrigerating plant. Dance in the evening.

Date: June 16 From 5/15 to 5/16 m 330 miles.

It was very foggy during the night of the 15th. The foghorn blew constantly, and towards morning vessel stopped to locate vessel which it heard in the distance. Was rather alarmed, but in about 3 minutes we started on O.K.

Today the ocean is more like glass than ever. Sighted a 3 masted square-rigger brigantine? a rather unusual sight for me - also more dolphins. Dr. Graber took pictures just as we struck a heavy fog, and the foghorn is booming again. Played shuffleboard with Portia - who beat me most terribly - but will try and get my revenge later. In the evening we dressed in our prettiest and had a dinner party with Mrs. Goddard as hostess with a most delightful menu - especially the ice cream - a pink strawberry in the center - with whipped cream and white of egg.

Date: June 17 5/16 to 5/17 352 miles - Land sighted.

Was called at 4 o'clock and went up on boat deck to see the sunrise - the moon was shining too - a very pretty sight, but it didn't beat Fortescue (note: place in N.J. where they had a summer house) one bit. Went back to bed but slept late. The next excitement was the first real sight of land - the English coast with its lovely green hills and white cliffs - a little fishing hamlet and military barracks. Saw ships - long narrow black ones - throwing torpedoes into the water which would travel underwater for several hundred feet and then explode. At the entrance to Plymouth harbor there was a long narrow strip of land with a lighthouse at each end and a queer cheese-box affair in the center which we could not decide what it was. Saw torpedos or sub marines travelling underwater - very fast - about 30 miles per hr. I was told. Then the fog shut down on us just after we had waved farewell to the passengers for London on the Sir Francis Drake - and we saw nothing more until sunset. We travelled very slowly - often stopping to locate other boats. There was a beautiful sunset and we saw The Isle of Wight at about 8 o'clock, and the little flashlight lighthouse, then all was fog again.

Played bridge in the afternoon with a very aggressive Miss Smith of Charleston SC., but was so sleepy I played terribly. Went to bed, but it took me a long time to get to sleep.

Date: June 18
Arrival at Rotterdam, Holland - The Hague

Was awakened by the arrival of the tender to take off the passengers for Boulogne, which was most unexpected as we were five miles out. This was done to save time as we had been delayed by the fog, so I did not see the departure. Wrote an anniversary (18th) to Jack.

Had a great time feeing stewards and stewardesses in the morning. Your table steward $2.50, room steward $1.50, room stewardess $1.50, deck steward 50 cents, door boy and morning lady 25 cents. At luncheon they drank my anniversary.

At lunch we caught sight of the Belgium coast, and at about three sighted the Hook of Holland, where we saw our first dykes - and how funny the houses looked, with only the tops showing over the dykes as we started up the river Maas - such a very small river for such large steamers to enter - we drawing 35 ft of water. We passed miles of low meadowland in a high state of cultivation. Saw a great many cattle and some sheep - mostly Holstein cattle. We passed by the small city of Flissingen where they manufacture a great deal of gin, and finally came to the dock - (2 hrs from the Hook) - in Rotterdam. The landing was most interesting. The inlanding of trunks was rather slow - entirely by hand - excepting the steerage baggage which was done by derrick into a small tender. I experienced my second feeling of homesickness when I saw all the friends meeting and not a face to greet us. We were passed by the custom officers as passengers without baggage (having only suitcases) and were soon in small carriages drawn by small horses on our way to the station bound for "Den Hague". Boats, boats, bridges without end, and canals everywhere, and a windmill right in the center of the town - I've forgotten the windmills in great numbers seen when coming up the river. The buildings in Rotterdam are very low, and on the highest building what should we see but a sign, "Quaker Oats". The streets were narrow and in the busy part of town the drays took the center of the road. It was strange to see a most up-to-date bicycle delivery cart and next to see a dog cart. The dogs were fastened hind part to cart and travelled underneath. Took tram (2nd class) in the queerest little compartment, and after about a 3/4hour trip reached The Hague, Hotel Bellevue - a very nice hotel with a deer park just opposite. Took a walk thru' the very narrow streets and narrower sidewalks. Coat of arms of The Hague is the stork. The stores are filled with filigree silver, potteries, and Delft china. We were surprised to find it light until nearly nine o'clock.

Went to our rooms and were writing up our diaries, when Mrs. Goddard brought me a bunch of 18 pink roses - simply gorgeous - for my anniversary - the 18th - so dear of her - and I did appreciate it.

Date: June 19
Place: The Hague - Amsterdam

The Hague de Bellevue Hotel (very good). Spent some time looking for a suitcase to replace mine which literally dropped to pieces. Took $14.60 of my load out of my safety bag! Then we went to Maurits Luis the art gallery. Pictures I liked or noticed most:

Rembrandt - School of Anatomy - Nicholas Tulp performing post mortem - abdominal sections - painted 1637

Rembrandt - Simeon in the Temple - beautiful "Susanne" about to bathe, being spied upon by face in shrubbery - Simply hideous - painted 1631

Jan Vermeer - View of Delft - beautiful landscape.

Paul Potter - Bull - Bull most lifelike. Cow lying down and 2 sheep and man.

Gerard Dou - The Household - Man woman and child in cradle with cabbage, hare, etc. around room.

Jan Steen - 2 Doctors visit Molenaer - 5 senses - swell! vulgar.

Jan Steen - Poultry yard.

Jan Steen - Drunken woman - Horrid.

Murillo - Madonna and Child - Madonna beautiful - reminded me in expression of Carol Johnstone.

We then walked to the prison where we saw the most horrible instruments of torture - which when I have read about have tried to believe were half myth - thumb screws, branding irons, racks, etc. - a most horrible place built in 1300, and used as late as 1828.

After lunch we drove to "House in the Woods" Royal Palace. Saw the home of the Dowager Queen and Peace Palace.

Then went to Scheveningen - which was much like Atlantic City but only a little much - with the little bathing houses on the beach which were pulled to the water's edge by horses and the queer little chairs which people sat in along the beach. It was a very good beach, but not so good as our home beaches. Hotels large, but only a few of them.

Came back by trolley. Bought a piece of pottery made in Holland. Trip to Amsterdam thru' exactly the same country - highly fertile lowlands, canals, cattle, flowers, and windmills. Arrived at Pension Lutkie - a rather foreign house with the steepest stairs I ever saw in a house.

Date: June 20
Amsterdam

Pension Lutki Amsterdam. Amsterdam is much larger and more commercial, but not so foreign-looking as The Hague. Flowers, flowers everywhere - and such beautiful ones - daisies three inches in diameter, coreopsis as large as the daisies, and beautiful roses - and so very cheap. Mrs. Goddard presented us each with one - short stems - 3 for 10 centimes! Tried to buy tulip bulbs but were told they were unfit to sell at this time of year - left address for catalogue and will send in September.

Went to the Rijks Museum this morning. Enjoyed Rembrant's "Night Watch", "The Syndics", "A Woman's Portrait" - Nicholas Maes (a pupil of Rembrant's) "The Spinner" - a copy of which I bought and sent to Wirt by mail - Johannes Vermeer's "The Milkmaid", A. Van Dyke's "Wm II and Mary Stuart", Reuben's Cimon and Rena - which I did not like - "Rembrant's Mother" by Gerard Dou and others too numerous to mention. Portrait of Elizabeth Baas (Baars?) - Rembrandt. A most natural looking old lady in Dutch cap and ruff.

After lunch we went to Kalver St. and did some shopping. Bought a silver vanity box, postcards, perfume etc. Took a trolly ride around the city. After dinner we went to the American Hotel expecting to sit in a sidewalk booth, but it was so crowded that we had to sit inside. Had a glass of Pilsner beer - which cost 20 centimes - and we tipped the waiter 5 centimes or cents - as they call them - which is rather confusing.

Date: June 21
Amsterdam

Today we took a trip to the Isle of Marken, stopping at Broek where we went thru' a cheese farm - saw all the processes of making cheese, and it was immaculately clean. The marking of the pineapple cheese is done with a coarse twine bag and weights when the cheese is not yet dry. Bought a Dutch cap - such as all the natives wear. Monnikendam very much the same. Bought the most delicious strawberries which were sweeter and finer in texture than ours. Next stop Volendam - the quaintest fishing village I have ever seen - hundreds of fishing boats with the heaviest of hulls and high thick bows. The men, women, and children in their Dutch costumes were most picturesque. The men's trousers, as the women's skirts, huge at the top with the queerest of belts and caps and modern shoes - the worst little beggars in the world. At the Isle of Marken we had a heavy thunder shower, but saw the insides of several cottages with their walls covered with plates and very handsome pieces of mahogany for such little insignificant houses - queer costumes again, with wooden shoes at each front door. The trip back thru' Zuider Zee was most delightful. Met A. Oesteshuis, a young University of Wisconsin Professor who lives in Madison, Wisconsin, and also Mrs. Orr and her daughter of Worcester, Mass. Said goodbye to Dr. & Mrs. Graber - Leave for Hanover in morning.

Date: Monday June 22
Amsterdam - Hanover - Hildesheim, Germany

Expected to take the 8 o'clock train but found the tickets were not good until the 9 o'clock train, so we sat in the depot for one hour and watched a couple make love while we wrote post cards! Had a long ride from 9 to six - Amsterdam to Hanover - rain, rain - lunch on the train. Took the train to Hildesheim - about an hour and a halfs' ride - and found that the pension keeper, where we had expected to stay, had moved out - and when we found her she told us she could not take us. Mrs. Goddard was very sweet about it, but if I had known a few German swear words, I should certainly have proceeded to use them. Sent us to Germains Hotel - where Portia collapsed - and we had a scramble to get Dr. Schneider, a fat little round soul who seemed to know his job! At our first entrance to the hotel, which was part beer garden, I thought we were surely in the wrong pew! But such things seem OK in Germany, and we found the hotel a most delightful place, and the proprietor and maids most attentive. Dorothy and myself ordered a bath, but as it took about two hours, with the proprietor, two maids, and two boys to fix the bath, I decided that if the proceeding had to be gone over with for mine, I'd have to sit up till morning - so countermanded the order. The bathtubs are most unique. They are attached to a small stove by two pipes and a fire is made in the stove - when the water gets hot enough, why all you have to do is take the live coals out of the stove! Here we met our first feather beds for covering - the beds being heaped up almost to headboard and sloping gradually down at the foot - looked queer to say the least. Here too we saw the first German stoves - high affairs that looked like miniature towers - some made of tile and some of iron - resembling a grandfather clock and reaching almost to the ceiling.

Tuesday June 23
Hildesheim, Germany

Got our first German money and felt better as I was entirely out. Hildesheim is one of the medieval towns of Northern Germany and chiefly notable for its old timber houses - old cathedral etc. The streets are very narrow and winding, and the little timber houses - built one story extending over the other - seem almost to touch at the top.

We first visited the cathedral - "Der Dom" which had its first start by Ludwig the Pious who, as the German legend goes, wandered away and fell asleep under a rose bush where he had a vision of the madonna who told him to found a church when the holy snow fell. (Painting of legend in Rathous). He founded a chapel in 825. Fater Bishop Helizo (1055-1061) took up the work and built the chapel which has been enlarged from time to time. St. Berward gave the larger bronze doors - illustrated old testament one one side - the making of Eve from Adam with scenes in the garden etc. on the other side - birth, crucifixion, Easter, ascension etc. Also an enormous column with biblical illustrations winding from top to bottom. The corona was most beautiful - made of brass - part of which was bought from Jerusalem ? The font filled a niche in the side wall - brass with reliefs - biblical. On the outside is the rose bush supposed to be 1000 yrs old - The Rose of Hildesheim - single white with a slight pink tint - every stalk has a year tag. Most gorgeous and very ornate.

St Michael's Church was founded by Bishop Bernward built in 1001-33 - rebuilt and restored later - is one of the finest Romanesque churches in Germany. The paintings on the flat wooden ceilings of the nave with their scriptural deep blue ground, date from close of the 12 century - stucco reliefs of angels - coloring beautifully soft and restful - liked it better than the cathedral.

The Rathous, erected in the 14 century and restored in 19-. Frescoes by H. Prell - History of Hildesheim - reminded me of the Boston Library - The Butcher's Guild house called "Kunstgewerbe Haus" is said to be the first timber house in Germany, and is now used as a museum with a store on the ground floor where I bought a Rose of Hildesheim and a picture of the Guild House.

Went to a conditeree for coffee, chocolate and German cakes - called Baum Küche - a dry cake very much like pound cake. Have forgotten the Rathaus square or platz as the Germans call them - is surrounded by Rathaus, Guild House, Tempelhaus, with two round corner turrets and the Wedekund (?) house now used as a savings bank - fountain in center of platz - erected in 1540.

Date June 24
Hildesheim

Expected to leave Hildesheim but Portia was sick. We spent the day walking thru' the little crooked streets, finding our way by map - went thru' Juster (?) St. the Jew quarter - unlike our Jew quarters most quiet and clean. In early times at six o'clock the street was closed, and we saw the hinges of an old iron gate - went into shops etc. It rained most all day. We took a long walk thru' a park and enjoyed the most gorgeous flowers and foliages - returned about 9.30 when it was not yet dark.

Date: June 25
Hildesheim - Hanover - Berlin

Hildesheim - riding 3rd class for Hanover. Reached there about a little after ten. Took a room at Palast Hotel or Rheinischer Hof - took a carriage and drove thru' city - 250,000 inhabitants. Georg Strasse is the chief thoroughfare of the city between the old and new parts - statuary everywhere - noticed especially Stromeyer and Schiller.

Saw old Rathaus and New Rathaus - a most elegant building with a gold dome, clock and doors which cost about $4,000.000. Saw the elegant waterworks building, and Waterloo Platz - a large drill ground and Waterloo column - a miniature in marble of which we saw in the old Palace in Berlin, which was presented by the King of Hanover. Drove thru' a beautiful avenue of Linden trees to Schloss Herrenhauser - built in 1698 - the favorite residence of George I, II & V of Hanover. Beautiful gardens - a copy of Marie Antoinette's gardens at Versailles. Passed the house where Queen Louise was born.

Mrs. Goddard called in and introduced us to a charming friend - Frau Gross Leina and her sons who took lunch with us at the hotel. One of the sons lives in San Francisco - first name Wolf. We left immediately after lunch for Berlin - a four-hours trip. Stayed at Pension Hunt, 11 Kleist St. Very nice large rooms - good plain table - I hurried thru' supper and took taxis to Deutsches Opernhaus, Charlottenburg - to see Wagner's opera das Rheingold. We were a little late, and it was quite a puzzle to find one's seat as there are no ushers. One is let in thru' doors at the sides where about 6 rows of seats are partitioned off, and expected to find your seat. I stood for some time before I solved the problem, and then stumbled into my seat in the dark. There were no intermissions, and silence reigned supreme until the end of the opera when there was a great deal of applause. If a word is spoken during the performance, or a person leaves their seats at the end of the performance before the last bar of music, the most polite Germans hiss! The scenery to das Rheingold was beautiful, and voices and orchestra fine.

Date: June 26
Berlin

Walked in Unter den Linden - 198 ft wide - the handsomest and busiest part of Berlin from Brandenburg Gate to the Statue of Frederick the Great in Bronze. Along the Linden we passed the Palace of Emperor Wm I - now used by the crown prince, which we did not enter. The University buildings - which were formerly a royal palace, Opera House, arsenal, Cathedral and fine shops.

Entered the royal palace erected by Elector Frederick II in 1443-51 - has been added to. Wm II made the palace once more the residence of the reigning sovereign - sight seerers were conducted thru' the state apartments. Saw magnificent sideboard, steins etc. The rococo decorations are beautiful - prefer decorations in color than so much gold and silver. Chapter room of black eagle and red eagle rooms, I remember for having tapestry with eagles on them. Elegant pictures - some of the wall coverings are wearing out and are covered with glass in places. Many of the solid silver candlesticks, tables, beds etc. were melted and turned into coin during the seven-years war, and the present ones are of wood silvered over. In the outer court saw St. George and the Dragon in bronze by Kiss. Opposite the palace was a statue of Wm I on a horse led by genius of peace - the four corners of the base are victories, and on two sides are reliefs of war and peace - the monument is enclosed on three sides - ending in corner pavilions with bronzes.

Hunt Pension for dinner.

Went to Charlottenburg - The Royal Palace there was occupied by the Kaiser, so we were unable to go in. Went to the mausoleum where Queen Louise and her husband Frederick Wm III, and also their 2nd son Emperor Wm I and his wife Augusta, were buried. Small chapel with subdued purple light which falls on the beautiful figures of queens and kings lying as if asleep. Louise and Frederick Wm III done by Rouchiend (?), Wm I and Augusta by Eucke in Carrara marble - one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. The gardens around the mausoleum and palace were beautiful - Linden trees mostly.

In the evening we went to the Theatre des Westens to hear The Valkyrie - did not have so much trouble with seats this time. It began at 7.30 and lasted until 11.30 - music exquisite and restful. Did not get near so tired as one would suppose. Sieglinde's voice and presence perfect - also Siegmund (Georg Schmieter - a fine baritone voice), Brünhilde (Minnie Pönsgen).

Berlin is as beautiful at night as by day - beautiful grass flower plots all over the place in the middle of the street - and everything is immaculately clean - the streets fairly shine - they are wood blocks underneath and something like asphalt on top only much smoother.

Date: June 27
Berlin - Potsdam

Took the train for Potsdam to Wannsee and from there by boat - 1 1/4 hr. to Potsdam. Beautiful ride thru' lakes bordered by hills past Schloss Babelsberg, once the residence of Wm the Great, of which we got only a peep thru' the trees.

First went thru' Town Palace originally erected about 1660 but dating in its present form from 1751. Saw the private rooms of Frederick The Great - dining room where table let down thru' floor so as to dispense with waiters. Bedroom with silver bed table and fence-like division between that and the sitting room. These were formerly of solid silver, but during the seven-years war these were melted down and converted into coins and the present ones are made of wood silvered over - a beautiful inlay room done in eleven kinds of wood - tapestry room 250 years old. Living room of Queen Louise. Vase from Pompey 2,000 years old. The bronze room contained a clock presented by Madam Pompadour. From one of the windows of the palace could be seen "the tree of petitions" where people used to tie letters for the Emperor, and if he considered it worth while, he would call them in.

Potsdam has a garrison of 7,000 soldiers. Went to the garrison church where royalty attend. Saw the sarcophagi of Fred the Great and his father Fred Wm I - the latter of plain zinc and Fred the Great's of black marble.

Next went to the palace of Sans Souci erected for Fred the Great in 1745 - and where he preferred to live - a one story building at the top of five terraces - covered with the most beautiful gardens, fountains, statuary - and stairs leading up. The apartments of Frederick the Great here are very beautiful and home-like or more so, than any of the other castles we have seen - the dining room is in the middle of the building - overlooking steps and fountains in Carrara marble - a round room with a dome ceiling, and a most beautiful mosaic floor - a few statues in niches is all that is in room. Voltaire room - most interesting - there was a toilet set presented to him because he was untidy on the dressing table, and parrots on wall because he was vain. The library housed several thousand books - also saw the bedroom of Frederick - where he died - and a beautiful marble statue of him when he was very old, seated in a chair with a dog underneath it. Saw the graves of nine of his favorite dogs.

Date: Sunday June 28

Went to the cathedral in Berlin - German Lutheran - in the morning - saw some beautiful windows in the chancel - Birth, Crucifixion and Ascension of Christ - most elaborate reredos in guilt - and a crucifix on the altar! The service I failed to get much from, as I could not see the minister or chancel. I finally decided that they must stand up to pray and they sat down to sing. Had a choir of at least a hundred boys - not robed - who sat in a gallery. The little music the boys sang was fine, but before the sermon they all went and got their hats, walked back across the gallery, and a few of them came downstairs and sat in seats evidently reserved for them. The seats in the back of the church, in a balcony reserved for royalty, were empty.

Went to Kaiser Frederick Museum after church - many noted pictures - Titian's Portrait of self and daughter Lavinia - Raffaello's Madonna - and St. Anthony of Padua - by Murillo. There were several portraits by Albrecht Durer - Old man and young girl, Oak Forest by Van Ruisdale, Nicholas Maas - Woman Peeling Apples, a Van Dyck, ( Rembrandt - Man with Helmet ) Marchese Spiniola. Gerard Ter Borsch - Portraits, Mater Dolorosa, Guido Reni. Could not get an English guide book, so saw lots of things I knew very little about.

In the afternoon took a beautiful auto ride all thru' the city. Went to a stadium said to be the largest in the world - a most beautiful place with flowers and restaurants. Germans certainly love music, eating, and drinking - and show the eating in their build. Went through Grünewald - the new part of Berlin - Unter den Linden, Tiergarten past hundreds of statues of Victory with cannons captured from the Danish, Austrians, and French surmounted by a gold figure of a woman - a beautiful monument - past Reichstags Gebäude. Went to a garden concert - had a glass of fine cold beer - never saw a place where they have fewer ice cold things to drink. Gardens were crowded - all the world ,his wife and children, out listening to the music - sat under the trees at little tables - and even in such a place, there is almost no talking while music is going on. Walked home thru' beautifully lighted streets.

Monday 29
Berlin - Dresden

Went to Reichstags Gebäude - the German house of Parliament - a very handsome building with a gold dome - cost over $1,000,000. Saw most of the rooms - the Imperial Diet room with desks - lobby rooms, dining rooms, committee rooms etc. - not unlike our own capital. Stairways and furniture of beautifully carved wood.

From there went to Hohenzollern Museum - where relics of House of Hohenzollern are kept - Queen Louise's dresses, hats, slippers, journal, uniforms, swords, canes, pictures - anniversary presents from other rulers - kindergarten work of the present emperor, baby carriage. Thirteen most magnificent snuff boxes set in diamonds and other precious stones - miniatures of kings and queens, the tiniest and most beautiful one of Queen Louise - state robes of kings in red velvet, ermine and embroidered with black eagle. Portraits of rulers and families. Took 4.26 train for Dresden - about 2 1/2 hours trip.

Before we left did shopping in Passage between Unter den Linden and Frederick Strasse - bought an amber pendant and chain for 23 m., a garnet pendant and chain for 33 m., an amethyst pin, an amber heart book for Rosalie, and a stick pin 12 marks.

June 30 - Tuesday
Dresden

Stopped at Westminster Hotel - just a block from the depot. A very small very comfortable unpretentious hotel - good service and table, with running water in the rooms - bath tubs with running water once more! Altogether nice. Went to Grüne Gewolbe - Museum of Saxon province - saw the most beautiful things of many kinds - inlaid tables, mosaic tables - amber cabinets, carved ivory - one piece "fall of angels" made by an Italian priest who worked on it all of his life which contained 142 figures surrounded by ivory flowers tipped with silver. Saw Martin Luther's drinking goblet and seal ring of carnelian - most exquisite jewel boxes - Mosaic madonna and child. The tiniest Christ on a cross with the two thieves about 1 1/2 inches high made of gold. The most gorgeous of all were the crown jewels hat clasp made of enormous diamonds with famous greene (?) diamond weighing 48 1/2 karats - bow knot of diamonds containing 662 stones - one diamond weighing 50 karats - emeralds and rubies, also sapphires and pink pearls. Can't describe such magnificence in words. Each piece is so arranged that if any one should touch it, bells ring in three different places in the palace of which the museum forms a part. Went to the picture gallery and saw Raphael's Sistine Madonna - extremely large and most beautiful in expression and coloring. Correggio - Holy Night, Murillo - Madonna & Child, Carlo Dolci - St. Cecelia, Guido Reni - Ecco Homo - Christ's Head with Thorns - I also admired his Mater Dolorosa in Berlin. Titian's - Tribute Money and Virgin, Child & 4 Saints - Leda and the Swan - horrible. The Sacrifice of Man and His Wife - Rembrandt - Later pictures - The Robbers of the Desert - Richard Friese, Christ on the Cross with 3 Holy Women Munkascsy - By lantern light - Osman, Schindler - Horses & Men with Lantern.

Took a beautiful drive along the Elbe and all thru' the city - not as beautiful as Berlin - rather modern excepting in parts which look very old. Went to Belvedere Garden - a beer garden with a beautiful orchestra where the people actually kept quiet when the music was going on - Had a fine glass of beer.

July 1 - Wednesday
Dresden - Munich

Left Dresden at 8.26 - went through a beautiful hilly country with miles and miles of wheat fields - the grain being cut was reaped by men, women, and children and carried by ox teams - sometimes four oxen. The fields of wheat are thick with red poppies and cornflowers and certainly are beautiful. Every little while we came to a pretty little village with red tiled roofs. Dinner on the train - very much like other dinners - arrived at Munich at 6.15 stopped at Pension Wallenberg - 30 Hess Strasse - a very pleasant place - kept by a German woman who speaks English.

In the evening we went to Lowen Brau - a typical German beer garden - we ordered beer and such steins as they brought - held over a quart and was so heavy you could hardly lift it. A very good brass band played good music and everybody talked - an enormous place. I think there must have been several thousand people there and such delicious dark Münchenener beer! I nearly drained my stein

July 2 Thursday
Munich

Went to the Glyplothek Museum of Statuary - Beginning with Assyrian art 884 BC - extremely crude and mostly reconstructed - new arms legs, heads etc. - up to present date. Earliest sculpture mostly of sandstone. Among the old is the celebrated Mask of Medusa - end of 5th century BC. Among the late sculpture, liked Adonis by Thorwaldsen 1831 - Pans by A. Canova 1812 - Child Praying by Karl Keifer Munich 1898.

From there we went to Alte Cynakothek (?) Holy Ursula - a panel by Bartholomin Teilblon - Sebastian's Altar - St Elizabeth on the right- hand panel and Santa Barbara on the left-hand - Rembrandt's Holy Family - Reuben's Madonna in Wreath of Flowers. H. Mendlung (?) - The (?) Joys of Mary - a queer picture composed of a great many small pictures - Raphael's Holy Family - Andrea Del Santo Holy Family, Murillo Beggar Boys - Raphael - Madonna della Prato (?)

Went into the new museum and saw some very pretty pictures, but as Mrs. Goddard was not with us, and we could not read German, we enjoyed without knowing much about the pictures - one beautiful picture - Orpheus & Eurydice I especially liked - a beautiful altar piece formed in silver.

In the evening we went to a Wagner concert with a beautiful orchestra - at Ton Halle. Four of us went in a taxi, and it cost us about 12 1/2 c each! In the afternoon by 3, we went sight seeing in Munich. Saw old and new Rathaus victory monument, museum,and Iser river which looks like green glass with a most rapid current - a very pretty city.

July 3
Munich

Took in Shack Museum which was given to the city by Graff von Shack. Saw Franz von Lenback's Shepherd Boy - Bride of Alps - The Loreleis - Steinle. There were a great many copies of pictures by Lenbach - which were very good.

Spent the rest of the day in shopping. Bought table cloth - 8 marks 75, garnet cross, lead pencil doll for Rosalie - dressed just like hundreds of children you see in the streets - a knife, paper knife, and a copy of The Shepherd Boy which I unfortunately lost. Went to the Hoff Garten and had a pineapple ice.

In the evening went to the Hoff Brau - one of the largest beer gardens in Munich - never was in such a place before in my life - think it must have held a thousand people - no music - could have cut the air with a knife - the decorations were very old but once must have been beautiful - think there was a Madonna on the end of the room - bought beer, pretzels, radishes, and bread sticks with caraway seeds. Every brewery has its own beer garden. We sent the suitcases on tonight and we leave in the morning at 9. Met Miss Frances Shields and Miss Kloss - friends of Dorothy Schmucker who went with us to the Hoff Brau.

Fourth of July
Munich - Bozen, Austria (note - now Bolzano, Italy)

Left Munich at 9.40 in a cold driving rain - Fourth of July in a foreign country with no fireworks and only an American flag to celebrate with - on the way the rain partly disclosed a most beautiful mountainous country - The further we went, the more beautiful it became. Passed thru' the border where baggage inspections take place as we enter Austria. The railroad winds around mountains and thru' tunnels and had my first view of gorgeous snow-capped peaks. We have now entered the Tyrol with little red-roofed villages clustered in the valleys - a raging river fed by mountain streams falling hundreds of feet, with here and there a castle or church with spire which makes a perfect picture. The queer costumes of men and women were new and strange. Man dressed with heavy nailed shoes, socks, and short trousers with a pair of calflets! and surmounted by a soft felt hat with a bunch of feathers or a shaving brush at the back - were not an uncommon sight - rucksack on back and cape over coat making a most incongruous whole. As we neared Innsbruck - the beautiful terraced vineyards began and went from valley to top with the most picturesque little houses here and there - some at the very top of the mountains. The grapes are grown on wooden frames that are higher on one side than the other. and slatted across so that the grapes fall through. Grapes seemed the principal crop grown altho' we saw little garden plots with lettuce etc.

Arrived in Bozen about four o'clock. Went to Hotel Victoria - a very nice place which is directly opposite the station. We took aride around the place and found it quaint and beautiful. Some of the streets are so narrow that a carriage takes up the entire street - high walls on either side and even a foot passenger can not pass - other streets have the houses so close together that you could shake hands across the street almost! Driving thru' these little streets, at the ends one sees the gorgeous mountains which entirely surround the place as if sent in frames. Americans seem to attract much attention here - people simply stare, even stop, turn around, and gape. As we leave at 6 o'clock in morning - call at 4.30 - bed for me at 9 o'clock.

July 5 and July 6
Bozen - Venice, Italy

Left Bozen at 6.10. Ride very much the same as the day before. Gorgeous at every turn of the very winding RR. Here began the vineyards growing on trees. By the numbers of grapes grown, one would suppose that they could supply the world! Had lunch on the train. As we reached the border between Austria and Italy, the baggage was examined. We were saved that trouble as we were without. As we neared Venice, we left the hills and the country became monotonous and there were such long stops in the stations! When we reached Venice at 12.30 we were met by Hotel Grand porter who put us in Gondolas - four in one and four in another, and took us on about a half-hour ride to Hotel Grand on The Grand Canal directly opposite Santa Maria della Salute. I fell in love with Venice at once - all but the odor! The little canal streets - where every now and then you pass under bridges - and the tiny crooked paved courts just wide enough for (?) to pass with high houses on either side.

We first went to St. Mark's Square where San Marco, the Campanile - clock tower and the doge's palace sprang into view all at once. A most beautiful sight. Visited San Marco twice. It was much more beautiful than I had anticipated - very ornate on the outside and every nook and cranny contains saints in colors of Venetian glass. The floor was exquisitely made of stone mosaic - altar of green marble with canopy top held in place by four beautifully carved columns - back of this altar seemed to be another altar with green spiral columns - said to have formed part of the Temple of Solomon. On either side of the chancel over rail two beautiful angels in mosaic. St. Mark's bones supposed to have been brought from Alexandria to Venice in 829 and deposited under the altar of the church? The bronze horses were supposed to have adorned the triumphal arch of Nero, and afterwards of Trojan (?. Constantine brought them to Constantinople, and one of the doges brought them to Venice. Napoleon took them to Paris, but they were restored in 1815. A wonderful view from the balcony - well worth paying the price to go up.

Next went into the doge's palace which dates from the doge 1424. It was the tribunal as well as the residence of the doges - dates back to 814, but has been rebuilt and restored several times - there are 2 arcades - the upper one called the "loggia" between the two red pillars the republic required for its sentences of death to be read. The columns of both court and loggia are decorated at the top with faces and flowers. The inside is decorated with pictures by Tintoretto, Paolo Veronese, and Palma Vecchio are most beautiful - contains rooms of council, etc. of doges and private apartments - is now a picture gallery and museum. The walls and ceilings are most elaborately decorated by Tintoretto, Palma Vecchio, P. Veronese and Titian and others - went to see Titian's St. Christopher on the staircase - anyone looking on this figures was supposed to be saved from a violent death, so the picture was painted on the staircase so the doges could see it every morning when they went to chapel.

In St. Mark's Piazza is an enormous square tower called the campanile - a high bell tower which fell a few years ago and is not yet fully restored. At the right of the campanile facing St. Mark's, is the piazzetta - an open square with the lion of St. Marks and St. Theodore on a crocodile - on high columns on the leftof the clock tower with bell and two bronze figures which automatically strike a clock which has 24 hours on the dial. They use the entire 24 in telling time - time tables - the train leaves at 19 o'clock etc. The other sides of the square contains stores below and apartments above. Went into the middle of the square and fed pigeons with peas and corn which they ate out of my hand.

In the evening, we took a most beautiful gondola ride. The gondolas are very comfortable and the easy way the gondoliers stand and row with one oar is remarkable. Many of the private gondolas are beautiful. Our gondolier sang selections from operas for us. It seemed strange that anyone in such a lowly position should know operas instead of ragtime. The music gondolas decorated with lanterns were numerous and voices good. To lend to the enchantment, the full moon was shining down in all its splendor.

The shops were perfectly entrancing, and before you knew it you could hear yourself saying - I'll take this, I'll take that - corals - Roman pearls, scarfs, beads, pictures, Venetian glass, laces etc. Heard a concert in the square the second night. Have forgotten our trip to Lido the little summer resort - about 20 minutes ride from Venice - very pleasant, but not especially interesting. Still water bathing - some of the girls had on men's bathing suits - no shoes or stockings. Very warm weather and fleas, fleas, fleas! Scratch scratch!

July 7
Venice - Milano - Como - Bellagio

Left Venice at 8 reaching Milan at 12.30. Took autos and went to San Maria della Grazia to see Leonardo Da Vinci's "Last Supper" - a most beautiful painting on the plaster of wall - not very well preserved, but still so very much better than copies on other walls and other conceptions of the same subject. Milan cathedral next with spires galore and statuary in every niche - inside the most beautiful arched roof of carved sandstone - three arches forming three aisles with enormous pillars of marble - the only coloring the most gorgeous windows - tremendously big - containing - I should say - about a hundred separate pictures of bible subjects - coloring most exquisite - at right and left of chancel stood two brass arrangements - can't describe - but which seemed out of harmony with the rest of the cathedral. From Milan to Como by train with mountain scenery continuously - snow-capped alps. At Como, beautiful lake Como came into view and a heavy storm was brewing. Started on the boat in a hurricane of wind and raging waves - saw rain all around us in the mountains and soon the storm broke on us with thunder, lightning, and hailstones as big as hickory nuts - really a most beautiful sight. Reached Bellaggio after a 2 1/2 hours ride on boat. The rain had ceased when we reached the dock. Went to Hotel Grande Bretagna, a very nice hotel but very fleay! Had a lovely room overlooking the lake - mountains in distance - which I could see from my bed.

July 8
Bellagio - Lugano, Italy

Bought olive wood and blankets and had picture taken for Swiss tickets. Bought blue straw baskets to carry purchases in - still without suitcases - and feel rather forlorn at nice hotels! Bellagio is built in the side of a mountain. Went up about a mile! of cobblestone steps to the photographer.

Took boat to Cadenabbia to see Villa Carlotta which was formerly owned by Prince Albert of Prussia, and named after his daughter Carlotta. It is now owned by Duke of Saxe Meiningen who has recently died - the most beautiful garden imaginable - terraces and flowers - fountains and mostly shrubbery and trees from every quarter of the globe - even California came in for a share. Magnolias most tremendous and Australian ferns and the most exquisite varieties of pines and cedars. Saw terraces lined with blue lobelia - oranges and lemons growing on a pergola. Saw only the entrance hall of the villa - containing the original Cupid and Psyche and Magdalen & Cupid giving Pigeons a Drink by Canova.

Took the 2 o'clock boat to Menaggio - changed for train to Porlezza and then took the boat to Lugano. Stayed at Hotel Bristol. Had a nice room with a beautiful balcony overlooking Lake Lugano with mountains in the distance. At about 11.30 the moon came up and the scene from the balcony was so beautiful - it was positively uncanny. I had to pinch myself to appreciate I was really alive and seeing such gorgeous sights

July 9
Lugano - Lucerne, Switzerland

Took the train from Lugano to Flüelen on the famous St. Gotthard RR - a trip of 3 hours in which we passed thru' 80 tunnels as we circled up the mountains - passing the same little church on three sides - but getting higher and higher all the time. Intended to walk from Flüelen to Tells Chapel and take the boat there for Lucerne, but it rained so we took the boat reaching Lucerne at 4.30 o'clock. Stayed at Royal Hotel Pension Kaufmann. Did a little shopping and in the evening went to Kursal - a variety theatre and gambling house. At the hotel they gave us a little booklet called a kurkarte which we had to show before they would let us into the game room - it seemed very fascinating, but as I had brought only a little with me, did not try it. Variety show fair and funny.

July 10
Lucerne

Shopping in the morning - had an early lunch and took the boat over Lake Lucerne to Flüelen - same scenery as end of trip the day before, but seen from a different direction it was more beautiful. To the right of Lucerne, facing the lake, is Mt. Pilatus - a most beautiful bare snow capped mountain - 4 peaks - and on other side the Rigi. The boat trip was wonderful also. Great over-hanging crags in some places - mountains cultivated halfway up with tiny red roofed houses here and there - and little villages at the foot - words fail to describe such grandeur.

Took the train from Flüelen to Tells Chapel on a fine road for autos which runs from Flüelen to Brunnen - 8 miles - and has magnificent scenery. Walked only two miles but decidedly upgrade all the time. Went down a hundred - at least - steps to Tells Chapel - a little square building of stone - right on the lake - which is supposed to be the place where William Tell escaped from Gessler's boat and afterward brought about the freedom of Switzerland. Large mural paintings depicting scenes from legend and history.

Boat back to Lucerne. The mountains seemed so very much higher when walking than from the boat. Can see Pilatus from my window tonight - the clouds almost hide it entirely - a beautiful moon.

July 11
Lucerne

Went to see The Lion of Lucerne - a most beautiful carving in the solid rock of the hillside of a dying lion - 28 ft long - by Thorwaldsen, the Danish sculptor - in memory of the Swiss guards who died in France protecting the Tuileries in 1792

From there went to the Glacier Garden which contains relics of ice period of earth with numbers of holes - one 28 ft wide and 33 deep - worn by the action of pieces of broken rock, water, and ice. Saw a large relief map of Switzerland in the museum attached to the garden - flora, animals, a relief of St. Gotthard fossils - models showing how strata of mountains had been formed. Saw an old covered bridge across the Reuss river with its paintings of history of Lucerne - most of which are nearly obliterated and others renovated. Lucerne is composed mostly of hotels - seems like a fashionable summer resort of the expensive sort.

In the afternoon of the 11th went to Hofkirche - a plain building with two square towers with spires - the inside was very much decorated - Catholic - Across the front, outside of an iron fence which went entirely across the chancel, were three most elaborately decorated mosaic altars with elaborate pictures and statuary in colors - representing the dead Christ on one side - a most pathetic piece of work. Heard an organ recital for an hour - admission to the church was 1 franc with kurkarte or 1 1/2 without. The kurkart was a little book, which I have spoken of before. Each hotel guest was obliged to buy one - centimes per day - and you were obliged to show them - if asked -

July 12
Lucerne - Meiringen, Switzerland

Left Lucerne at about nine o'clock over Brünig Pass - beautiful mountain scenery and a very steep incline - railroad on the very edge of cliff - almost hanging over the edge - beautiful little fertile valleys with little chalets here and there - and high bare snow-capped mountains in the background.

Reached Meiringen at 12 o'clock. Hotel and Pension Flora very good. Had lunch on an open air porch and walked to Aareschlucht or gorge of Aare river - a tremendous gorge cut by the erosion of the river - a regular mountain torrent a little less than a mile long and 640 ft deep - with little a path alongside - overhanging rocks that one had to bend in the path to pass - and tunnels. Went up four hundred steps expecting to find a fine view at the top, but were greatly disappointed as the end of the steps was not at the top of the mountain.

Saw the beautiful Alpbach Falls - which makes great leaps to the foot of the mountain. At 9 o'clock at night the falls are illuminated and are exquisite in red and green lights. The rocks stand out in the light and give it such a wild look. Meiringen is a very little place about 1100 inhabitants and we see few Americans.

July 13
Meiringen - Brienz - Interlaken - Meiringen, Switzerland

Left Meiringen at 9 o'clock for trip to Interlaken - went to Brienz on Lake Brienz by rail through mountain scenery. Went thru' a wood carving establishment and bought some pieces which I had sent home with Portia's table.

Took boat there thru' Lake Brienz past Giessbach Falls - the lake was as green as an emerald and the falls as white as snow - entirely surrounded by magnificent mountains some snow-capped - a most beautiful sight.

Drove thru' Interlaken getting our first view of Jungfrau on the way - to the finacularre which took us up a mountain giving us a better view of the Jungfrau. From this point we could look thru' telescopes and get a fine view of the mountain.

We reached Meiringen at about 7 o'clock. At Interlacken bought more wood carvings and saw a great many tourists - a great many walking with their rücksacks and alpine sticks. The highest mountain we have seen is the Jungfrau being 13.670 ft. It was capped with clouds which refused to remove themselves, so we did not get a glimpse of the highest point, but the snow and ice looked wonderful - the first glacier we have seen.

Tuesday July 14
Meiringen - Gletsch, Switzerland

Called at 5.30, leaving at 6.30 for our all-day drive through the most gorgeous mountain scenery we have seen so far. Went thru' Hasli Tol or Valley and over Grimsel Pass - which is the watershed of the Rhine on one side and Rhone on the other side - very much above the tree line. Passed the famous Handeck Falls where we saw two beautiful rainbows in the falls far below us. Took lunch at Handeck Falls Inn. I enjoy the wild mountain scenery much better than the cultivated mountains and loved every bit of the way. Walked a great deal of the way. Enjoyed especially the walk from Grimsel Hosp which is over 7000 ft to the Rhone Glacier thru' high banks of snow a great deal of the way - when we were not scrambling over the rocks taking a shortcut. It seemed very strange to be walking thru' banks of snow some 25 ft high and yet be warm and comfortable without wraps. The Rhone Glacier fills in the gap between two mountains and is solid ice and snow, showing a beautiful turquoise here and glistening beautifully in the sun. We walked out to the foot of the glacier after supper at Rhone Glacier Hotel - in the valley -

Wednesday - July 15
Gletsch

We were called at 5 o'clock, but it was 6.30 before we left Gletsch. Drove over mountains but of gradual descent until we reached Fiesch, a tiny village where we stopped at Post Inn for lunch. Our carriages went back to Meiringen, and we started at about 2 o'clock for a steady tramp up the mountains for the Jungfrau Hotel on the Eggishorn. We started at a rapid gate, but soon found out it did not pay and slowed down our pace to a steady, slow, long step. Walked through the most gorgeous scenery as we got higher and higher - and among the most beautiful flowers - forget-me-nots, daisies, alpine roses, wild carrot, and a great many kinds that I have never seen before. There was a regular path so we did not need a guide - a little over halfway up we stopped at a small inn Firnegarten for refreshments - had a bottle of beer and some crackers for which I was more than thankful, as it had been very warm so far. As we got higher, it became very cold and we were glad to put on our jackets. Reached Jungfrau Hotel on Eggishorn at about 6 o'clock just in time to escape a shower which in five minutes shut in the entire view. It is called Jungfrau Hotel because it is on the route to Jungfrau Mountain. Were so tired we were glad to drop into bed at nine or a little after. 7000 ft above sea level.

Thursday July 16
Jungfrau Hotel

Awakened at 5.30 to find the room as cold as Christmas, no view at all, and heard a man shovelling snow from a large patch almost under our window, so decided it would be impossible to climb Eggishorn - turned over and went to sleep.

The view seems a little brighter and hope to see something soon. The sun came out and Dorothy and self walked halfway to the top of Eggishorn - steep and wet - when the clouds began to gather and we were hardly back in hotel when it began to rain.

Played bridge in the evening with a Mr. Dickens, and Englishman and a Mrs ---- Had terrible luck as usual. Mrs. G. gave us a party with decorated table, wine and cake.

Friday July 17
Jungfrau Hotel - Feish - Zermatt, Switzerland

Called at 5 to find clouds rising and had a fine but very muddy walk back to Feish. Picked flowers to send to Jack. Took diligence (note: a public stage coach) at Fiesch. It was very interesting to see post & by wagons change horses. Rode on by up top where we had a fine view. The trip was entirely down hill thru' Rhone Valley - The roads are very steep and the teams never slowed down the slightest bit around the sharpest curves. Our wagon had two horses and a leader. The post chaise has two and three leaders which were accompanied by another by wagon and baggage wagon. When nearing a bridge, we were crossing a RR and the driver - tho' warned that a train was coming - drove on. The lead horse would have had his head cut off if he had not swung around frightening the other horses who swung around too, and almost upset the coach - which gave us quite a fright.

From Brig we took train to Visp and there took mountain rail to Zermatt, Victoria Hotel good - which we reached at about 4 o'clock. Took a walk thru' a queer little street. Bought a picture of the Matterhorn - a most rugged, bold peak -14993 ft of which I have a good view of from my window. Zermatt is composed of five hotels and some log huts built up on mushrooms, as most of the Swiss huts are - a few little shops and Swiss cottages.

Saturday July 18
Zermatt, Switzerland

Took a trip up to the top of Gornergrat on the electric cog road - it was six miles to the top and provided us with a most magnificent view which was very close to, and entirely surrounded by, snow-capped mountain peaks, the most prominent being The Matterhorn which is over 14,000 ft high. To the left of the Matterhorn, the Little Matterhorn, Breithorn Twins, Lyksamm, Mt. Rosa - on the right Dent Blanc, Rothorn, Weisshorn & others. We could see men on Mt. Rosa climbing the Weisshorn which is higher than the Matterhorn, but the Matterhorn, being more detached, looks higher. Dorothy S. and self walked down and back to Zermatt thru' snow, ice, rocks, and mud, but with simply glorious air and view. Think the walk must have been at least ten miles. Was very stiff from the Eggishorn walk and know I'll be worse after this - coming down takes lots less time but is rather harder on one than going up.

Stayed at Victoria Hotel - a very nice rather stylish hotel. There was a dance in the evening which we watched for a short time

Sunday July 19
Zermatt - Visp - Lausanne - Geneva, Switzerland

Left Zermatt 9.15. Took train for Visp. Waited there 1 hr 30 minutes. Took train for Geneva where we arrived at 8 o'clock after a rather (monotonous was crossed out) - beautiful boat ride from Lausanne, with a lake now and then.

July 20
Zurich

Drove through Zurich - not very foreign looking - to Pension Fortuna - a rather indifferent boarding house.

July 21
Zurich

Mended in the morning. (note: from all the mountain climbing?)

In the afternoon, we took a boat trip on Zurich Lake to Herrliberg - a very beautiful lake green like other Swiss lakes and a very tiny place. Saw a wedding party at a little refreshment garden where we stopped for tea. Stranger to say there was no crowd of lookers on. It seemed so strange to see a bride in a satin dress and veil in such a place, but we were told that it was quite a usual occurrence. We were also surprised to see the bill for breakfast presented to the groom, and were told that that also was the custom in Switzerland.

In the evening we went to a moving picture show for which we paid 1 franc admission - very steady good clear pictures.

July 22
Zurich

Went shopping in morning, but bought very little as money was low. In the afternoon took boat to Rapperswil on Lake Zurich - a small place with an old castle and church. Where the heart of Kosciuszko is said to have been buried. We went with some friends of Mrs. Goddard's - two maiden ladies Frauleins Schrug, and their brother - very charming people and well-versed in history. Arrived in a pouring shower and much to our regret saw only the outside of the castle and church.

July 23
Zurich - Chur

Took the 8.40 o'clock train for Chur - a queer little village in the Engadine where we had lunch.

Left at 2.30 for Ragaz and from depot took a beautiful drive through mountains to Taminaschlught - a most beautiful gorge - which is very much more beautiful and higher than Aareschlucht, but much shorter. To enter the gorge, you have to pass through a very quaint hotel where tickets are purchased. This hotel has hot baths which are connected with a hot spring which was shown us thru' a tunnel in a rock. There used to be a small monastery at the end of the gorge, but it has fallen down I suppose. There seemed to be a great many old ladies at the hotel, so evidently the baths must be considered a cure-all! Chur and Ragaz were our only stops in the Engadine region.

July 24
Zurich, Switzerland

Went to tea with Fraulein Schinz - a friend of Mrs. G's, who took pictures of us.

In the evening we went to Hosh Tab (Tol?) or music hall - good music and good beer. In the morning F. Schinz took us over the town and pointed out churches etc. The town was once surrounded by a wall and a moat, but the walls and towers have been pulled down, and what was once the moat is now the principal shopping street of town. It is supposed to be a great silk place, but I could not see anything very cheap about the silks.

We went into the Grosseminster (church) which is being repaired - connected with this church is a school which Charlemagne founded and which has been kept for a school ever since.

July 25
Zurich, Switzerland

Bought a sweater in the morning and took a ride over town in the afternoon. Herr Schinz brought the pictures in the evening, which were not very good.

July 26
Zurich - Heidelberg, Germany

Left Zurich at 8.14 for Heidelberg by way of Shaffhausen, Switzerland. We had a most exciting time. When the train started, we found that Mrs. G with the tickets and baggage had been left behind! We had a greatly excited time with the conductor until we found a very nice man - Ferd Steinmuller - 320 Beech St. Roslindale - Boston Mass - who understood German and helped us out. We stayed on the train - passing the Falls of the Rhine - until we got to Shaffhousen, where the conductor held the train for five minutes until a few minutes later the train arrived with Mrs. G. and baggage! He did not make us pay for our fare either.

The trip thru' the Black Forest was very interesting - queer little houses and barns built together with the roofs in the center and thatch on either end with very wide eaves. Passed thru' Karlsruhe where Princess Salm-Salm used to live. The railroad passed around the mountains and thru' many tunnels - at times we could see whole trains - some mountains were very high and thickly wooded.

Reached Heidelberg at about 3 o'clock and stayed at the Pension Flora which I would decidedly not recommend to my friends. Hotel Victoria & Hotel d'Europe both good-looking hotels. It rained hard and we did not go out at night. The town seemed very much excited over the news of war being declared between Austria and Serbia. There were troops constantly passing for some reason, and Sunday extras were printed for the first time in 30 yrs - which, alas, we cannot read!

July 27
Heidelberg, Germany

Rain - rain - we walked thru' the shopping district but were not impressed with the stores.

Excitement has not abated. Rained hard in the evening - we did not go out -

July 28
Heidelberg, Germany

Took a carriage in the morning up a beautiful drive past Bismark's Tomb across an old bridge across the Neckar River with an old gate to Hirschgrasse - the university duelling place - a little inn plain as could be. Here the students really fence? for enjoyment, and half the men you see have horrible scars. It seems to be their sport as football is in American universities. If we had been there a short time before we could have seen four duels. The university was still in session - the last week before closing I believe. Saw an old table which had been carved with students names - Bismark's son and other prominent men - saw V. Brewer (note: Brewer was Mrs. Halsey's birth name) - went to the university and saw classrooms and the assembly hall and most interesting of all, a prison where students are confined for punishment. While there they decorate the walls with pictures, poetry etc. - and leave their photos on the back of doors.

The castle is a very interesting quaint old place - dating from 13th century - the walls in some places are 19 ft thick. It has been added to from time to time, and is a jumble of different architecture. It has been destroyed and partially restored from time to time. In 1689 it was blown up by the French on the approach of the Germans, and in 1764 it was stuck by lightning. Otto Heurrchs said to be best example of Renaissance architecture in Germany. Part of the castle has lately been restored, but it looks new and ornate. A beautiful view of Heidelberg from the tower with river.

In the afternoon we went to the hospital - which seems very much like other hospitals - as Mrs. G. had been ill there with typhoid. We met the head nurse, Hannah von Weech who knew Winona J. - Princess Salm-Salm from Karlsrube - In the evening we went to a beer garden & concert - a typically German woman's orchestra. Bought an enamel pin at Heidelberg.

July 29
Heidelberg - Cologne, Germany

Left Heidelberg at 6.05. Went to Mainz by train where we took the boat for the trip to Cologne - weather raining.

Paris July 30 Thursday
Cologne - Paris, France

Left Cologne at 8 am for a nine-hour ride to Paris - time pieces being set back 1 hr when we entered Belgium - passed thru' Liegeon the way. Reached Paris about 4 o'clock and went directly to the Hotel Louvois, a very good, quiet, small hotel which is very central. We took a walk and saw the opera house and one or two streets, and retired early.

July 31
Paris

We took a ride in sight seeing auto. On the east side of Paris we saw the French Academy, Pantheon with beautiful mural paintings - some by Chavannes- (who did the murals on the staircase of the Boston Library) - History of Genevieve - patron saint of Paris - pale light coloring - a monument to Voltaire, Victor Hugo, Emil Zola and Soufflot, architect of Pantheon. Notre Dame founded in 1163 - converted into Temple of Reason 1793 with ballet dancer as "Reason" Reopened by Napoleon as place of worship. Went into the treasury and saw the coronation robes of Napoleon - robes of priests in embroidery & jewels - gorgeous chalices given by kings for baptisms of their children - lace made by Marie Antoinette etc. The windows in the church were most beautiful rose windows. Past Hotel Cluny (Abbey of Cluny) Latin Quarter - Place des Executions where little French boys counted "one, two, three, four, five - cut head." Palace of Justice which we entered - saw trial going on - forgery of 50,000 franc check - saw lawyers in gowns - and judges also - saw a woman lawyer in the halls - saw places where Marie Antoinette was tried also Charlotte Corday. In the afternoon we went to the Louvre

War!

So Endeth the diary

... It is said she came home via steerage ...